I am pretty sure that almost all of you are familiar with this ground breaking New York based womenswear and accessories fashion label "PROENZA SCHOULER". The two designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez did the fashion world justice when the infamous PS11 bag debuted on their A/W 2010 runway, which until to date is still every fashionista's wardrobe essential (I am still contemplating on which one to purchase!! It is indeed in my bucket list).
Proenza Schouler's Spring Summer 2014 was a few degrees tuned down compared to previous collections, as they focused on an understated yet constructed theme. The two designers were inspired by furniture designers and artists such as Sergio Rodrigues, Piero Manzoni and Robert Hernandez, three of them have completely different design aesthetic which explains the eclecticism within the collection. Just like furnitures, the fabrics used were all texturized and the colors are warm and earthy tones like peach ice, cinnamon, ecru and my favorite; Black Gold. In general, the collection looked minimalistic, but with a touch of shaggy chic.
Although at my first glance I thought the collection looked too "Autumn/Winter", but as I went through a deeper research, the coats were not made from wool, but it was crepe.. and the dresses and blouses were all made from the silkiest finest knitted silk. And even though the colors weren't exactly symbolizing Spring/Summer, the metallic characteristic gave it a crisp appearance.
Some of the standout pieces includes foil incorporated pleated skirt, dropped shoulder boxy sweater, cotton crepe pantsuits with exaggerated hem width, and the "paint roller" color detailing that highlighted plain blazers and pants. This season they also created a printed fabric incited by the silhouettes of branches and trees (which may sound like a cliche, but they smartly aligned them in such a way that it looked three-dimensional. Lastly, the breath taking body cast that came in copper and chrome. Amazed. Yet Again.
For S/S 2014, the label came up with yet another eye-catching and drool worthy selection of accessories, such as the 90's inspired stacked sandals, braided leather shoes and heels, fringe tassel covered clutch, metal hologram bags. Think of rave-kid attitude with a high fashion twist. The clutches reminded me of the lunch box shape that reminded me of childhood but then juxtaposed with the wide range selection of shiny exotic leather detailing on the handbags.
Clean, Raw, Undone were the key reference points for the make up and hairstyle, taking Joseph Szabo's photograph of 70's teenagers as it's main inspiration... I was drawn by the beauty of it's simplicity. By keeping the make up and hair-do subtle, the theme of the collection distinctly became believable. The hair of the models were just slightly styled by rough-drying and the faces were slightly finger-patted with light powder.
Here is my attempt on recreating two of my favorite looks from the collection... I went straight for the metallic pleated skirt despite not having anything similar to it, which then resulted in a last minute craft session of me painting my asymmetrical train skirt with black and gold fabric paint. Just like the inspiration (furniture) itself, I purposely made the texture to look like wood's grain. And lastly, paired it with a boxy raglan sleeve sweater.
(Skirt - ABOCS, Top - ZARA, Heels - Charles & Keith)
For the second look, I went for a "Power Dressing" route. The boxy cut blazer with 2 side designer patch pocket and a low V collar neckline reminded me of the 70's power suit. Although I switched the black blazer with a Black Gold color instead to show the layerings, it is not an usual sight to see women nowadays wearing boxy cut blazers (or in my case.. 2 sizes bigger).
(Blazer - G2000, Skirt - Mphosis)
Proenza Schouler S/S2014 Runway Video - New York Fashion Week
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